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The role of appeals to tradition in origin food marketing. A survey among Polish consumers ☆ Q1 Paweł Bryła * Department of International Marketing and Retailing, University of Lodz, Narutowicza 59a, 90-131 Łódz´, Poland

A R T I C L E

I N F O

Article history: Received 17 September 2014 Received in revised form 1 March 2015 Accepted 16 April 2015 Available online

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Keywords: Consumer behaviour Origin food Tradition Perceived authenticity Nostalgia Food marketing Poland

A B S T R A C T

The frequency of the use of tradition in marketing is growing. Appealing to tradition reflects the need to have reference points, trust and stability. The perceived authenticity of a product is strongly connected with its origin, which is expressed by the factors of time (history), place (area), socialisation (local community) and naturalness (raw materials). The paper aims to examine consumer attitudes, preferences and behaviours regarding origin food in Poland. We carried out a survey in a representative sample of 1000 Polish consumers. According to our respondents, the characteristics differentiating origin food from conventional food include links with tradition as well as sensory and health properties. Referring to the typology proposed by van der Meulen, traditionality and territoriality are the most important characteristics of origin food. The perceived authenticity of origin products depends to the largest extent on such factors as: natural taste, product quality, sale in the region of origin and labelling. The most important determinants of origin food selection include: traditional recipe, taste, and product uniqueness. © 2015 Published by Elsevier Ltd.

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Introduction Consumers show an increasing interest in the quality of food. They often expect even more than higher dietary, health and hygiene standards from the products they buy. Affluent discerning buyers are increasingly looking for provenance, taste, and other product characteristics which are often attributed to the specific origin or production method. We may observe a ‘quality turn’ in the economy, from the ‘industrial world’, with its heavily standardised quality conventions and logic of mass commodity production, to the ‘domestic world’, where quality conventions embedded in trust, tradition and place support more differentiated, localised and environmentally friendly products and forms of economic organisation (Goodman, 2003). Emphasising the regional origin of food products and traditional manufacturing methods becomes an increasingly attractive alternative to the model of mass and homogeneous production and consumption, which prevailed in the second half of the 20th century (Doman´ski & Bryła, 2013). Tradition is used in marketing more and more often. For instance, the use of the term “tradition” in applications to register new brands in France grew from 10% in 1980 to 70% in 2000 (Amilien, Fort, & Ferras, 2007). Appealing to tradition reflects the need to have points of reference, trust and stability. It

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☆ Acknowledgement: Our research study was funded by the Polish Ministry of Science and Higher Education within a Iuventus Plus research grant no. IP 2011 004371. * E-mail address: [email protected].

is possible to copy all aspects of a food product, but it is impossible to change its history. The brands of regional food products are built on tradition, encompassing habits of manufacturing and consumption, and they are based on the localisation of production processes and the origin of raw materials. However, market success will occur only if the factor of tradition and localisation is highlighted by working out a high level of perceived authenticity of the shared brand. Conventional food is the mainstream, mass production, characterised by lower prices and quality than origin food, usually subject to intensive distribution and standardised production processes. Origin food is available in fewer distribution channels, is often produced in the traditional manner and in a specific place, has a higher price and quality. Producer brands and private labels play a major role in the marketing of conventional food, while geographical indications and quality signs are crucial in origin food marketing. Poland is an interesting setting for research on origin food marketing, because as the largest new member state of the European Union, it has recently undergone profound changes in the legal and institutional environment fostering value added in the agri-food industry. The system of protecting origin food products stems to the largest extent from European Union legislation. The introduction of European quality signs for regional and traditional food products constitutes a favourable ground for exploring their impact on consumer perceptions and behaviour. Moreover, the research on origin food marketing in Poland is scarce (unlike some more established markets, like France), so each attempt to improve our understanding of the subject is worthy.

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.appet.2015.04.056 0195-6663/© 2015 Published by Elsevier Ltd.

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The previous research on origin food in Poland focused on consumer understanding of the traditional product category, a SWOT analysis and characteristics of consumers of such products (Borowska, 2007, 2008), consumer attitudes towards such food (Z˙ akowska-Biemans & Kuc, 2009), the role of neophobia (Jez˙ewska-Zychowicz, 2009), origin food manufacturing (Doman´ski & Bryła, 2013), and retailing (Bryła, 2014; Doman´ski & Bryła, 2010, 219–222). This study is the first in Poland to determine what characteristics differentiate origin food from conventional food, to apply Meulen’s framework in Poland to determine the most important characteristics of origin food, to rank the determinants of perceived authenticity of origin food and to establish the determinants of origin food selection in Poland. This paper will address these issues and present selected results of the author’s empirical study in a representative sample of Polish consumers. Before we have a look at the Polish case study, we will paint a theoretical background and review the literature in order to better understand the research results.

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Theoretical framework Appeals to authenticity combined with nostalgia belong to promising marketing options. However, this authenticity is based on a reinterpretation of the past and allows a number of concessions, for instance regarding manufacturing methods. This is marketing based on looking to the past (the so-called retromarketing), but consisting in a skilful use of tradition and not necessarily its exact replication. For instance, the ‘Tuscan Experience’ represents new concepts of the idealised-self created through dietary renewal, lifestyle management, and rituals of imagined tradition and community (Chrzan, 2006). Tradition may even be invented (Boulianne, 2011). Certain consumers undertake ‘pilgrimages’ in their ritualistic quest to fully experience a food or cuisine in its ‘authentic’ and original cultural context (Long, 2006). Authenticity is a social and commercial construct referring to the product personality (Becut, 2011). The perceived authenticity of a product is strongly related to its origin, which is expressed by the factors of time (history), place (area), socialisation (local community) and naturalness (raw materials) (Cova & Cova, 2002). Five sources of authenticity were distinguished in the typology developed by S. Camus. The product may appeal to: 1) an epoch (‘archaeological’ origin), 2) its inventor or creator (inspirational origin), 3) a place (spatial origin), 4) a culture (ritualised origin), 5) a technology (technical or technological origin) (Camus, 2002). J. Ferrandi proposed a scale to measure the nostalgic authenticity of a food product, which encompassed the following dimensions: 1) origin, 2) naturalness, 3) identity (link with the consumer’s personality and style), 4) uniqueness (Ferrandi, 2012). Although originally nostalgia was treated as a pathology (Hofer, 1688), it subsequently became a sociological phenomenon, which helps people keep their identity in critical moments and face major existential changes (Davis, 1979). Meanwhile, in psychology, nostalgia is considered a positive, social emotion connected with the self-concept and fulfilling important psychological functions. It is defined as a sentimental longing for one’s own past (Sedikides, Wildschut, Arndt, & Routledge, 2008). During the last quarter of the century, this notion attracted the interest of representatives of marketing in the context of unleashing nostalgic reactions in the process of product and brand management, advertising messages and music (Holak & Havlena, 1991, 1992; Holbrook, 1993; Holbrook & Schindler, 2004; Kessous & Roux, 2010; Stern, 1992). A nostalgic product is an expression of individual and family history and identity. Thus, it is linked to the origin (a group of people, area, manufacturing method), which confers significance and originality on it. Due to its sensory properties, a food product may play the role of catalyser

of emotions and facilitate the recall of past experiences, people, places and events, becoming a vector of nostalgia (Ferrandi, 2012). Appeals to the factor of tradition may have a commercial dimension. It is even possible to use a term ‘consuming heritage’, and the area of origin may constitute an important element of a food product brand. Creating associations concerning authenticity may contribute to the construction of competitive advantage. It is necessary to create the image of a genuine, ancient and traditional product, whereas certain elements of the recipe may be modernised in order to meet current expectations of consumers, e.g. fewer calories (Tellström, Gustafsson, & Mossberg, 2006). According to Ga˛siorowski and Swulin´ska-Katulska (2002), the culinary heritage encompasses food products and dishes characterised by specific quality features as well as traditional methods of manufacturing and preparation, which may date back to ancient history. This kind of products are usually produced in small scale, with the use of specific capabilities and technologies, and are related to a given geographical origin. The culinary heritage may become a factor of rural development. Poland has a potential to make use of its culinary heritage, but in order to achieve the expected economic and organisational results, it is necessary to undertake a number of activities, including: sensitising the society and decision-makers; valorisation of traditional and typically Polish products and dishes; help to develop high value-added food products; promoting best practices; disseminating information, knowledge and capabilities,; creating a system of counselling; preparing producers to organise and edit applications to protect their products. Tradition (as well as authenticity and regional food) is a social construction that involves interested actors and that can be a site of contestation and conflict. On the basis of an international quality study, the following definition of traditional food products was proposed. They are often consumed or associated with particular holidays and/or year seasons, transferred from one generation to another, manufactured in a specific way in accordance with the culinary heritage, processed in a limited manner, distinguished and recognised due to their sensory properties and related to a particular local territory, region or country (Guerrero et al., 2009). It is crucial to establish which aspects of the origin product determine its credibility. van der Meulen (2007) distinguished five dimensions: territoriality, typicity, traditionality, communality, and landscapeability, which will be subject to our empirical verification. Territoriality is defined as the ecological and cultural relationships that a food system has with its territorial context (Sonnino, 2007, 63). It may be applied to the regional or local level. In France, there is a specific term terroir, which serves to designate the local origin of food products. Appealing to the terroir enhances perceived quality and constitutes a factor of differentiation and a source of value added. An exploratory study showed that it was a cognitive category, possible to be characterised with the use of three dimensions: 1) capabilities, including know-how, recipe, and tradition; 2) time and culture, which encompass history and rituals; 3) origin, including the territory, region, and land. A study of relationships among these dimensions and their constituent parts indicated the highest significance of the dimension called ‘time and culture’, which is directly related to consumers’ nostalgia. The research took into consideration such aspects as: proximity (with the region, product and producer), image of the production system, place of purchase, look of the product (including the type of packaging, brand, quality sign), image of the region of origin of the product, taste, and typicity. The respondents believed that local products are determined by: 1) know-how, 2) tradition, 3) region, 4) recipe (the sequence stemming from the quoted research) (Aurier, Fort, & Sirieix, 2005). Therefore, the factor of tradition is critical in the process of defining regional and local food products. Traditional food products (TFPs) are an important part of European culture, identity, and heritage, contributing to the development

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and sustainability of rural areas, protecting them from depopulation, entailing substantial product differentiation potential for producers and processors and providing ample variety in food choice for consumers. TFPs are often recognised by consumers with characteristics linked to regional identity and sensory quality (Guerrero et al., 2009). An important part of TFP is sold under different collective trademarks such as quality labels, including the EU quality signs of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG). The selection of origin food marketing as the subject area stems from the author’s conviction that it is an important and growing segment of the food market. As we focus on our consumer survey results, we largely rely on the subjective meanings assigned to origin and conventional prodQ3 ucts by our respondents. However, we would also like to provide our suggestions to help make the distinction between these two categories. In our opinion, origin food may be defined in the narrower sense as food products with quality signs referring to the area of origin (PDO and PGI in the European Union); and in the broader understanding, this term refers to any high-quality food products with Geographical Indications (GIs). GIs are place-based names that convey the geographical origin, as well as the cultural and historical identity, of agricultural products. GIs are unique, in that they provide a means of ensuring that control over production and sales of a product stays within a local area, but at the same time they make use of extralocal markets (Bowen, 2010). GIs are the result of a process whereby collective reputation is institutionalised in order to solve certain problems that arise from information asymmetry and free riding on reputation (Bramley, 2011). GIs are fundamentally tied to the notion of terroir, the idea that the special quality of an agricultural product is determined by the character of the place from which it comes (Gade, 2004, 849).

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Literature review A survey conducted by J. Ferrandi (2012) among 724 Frenchmen aged 17–84 confirmed the importance of perceived authenticity of the product in the consumption process (74% of the study subjects considered it important). A detailed analysis of the study results allowed to distinguish three types of consumers depending on the level of perceived authenticity of a food product having a nostalgic character. These groups differ according to the importance attached to selected product characteristics (sensory properties, packaging), manufacturing method (home-made, artisanal, industrial) and consumption context (time, company). A research study carried out in Aragon in Spain among consumers of olive oil and ham with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) indicated the impact of satisfaction on loyalty and purchase intention, and the impact of loyalty on purchase intention. When consumers do not know a given product with the PDO sign, they tend to rely primarily on directly perceived quality attributes (so called extrinsic attributes). Then the look of the product is much more important than the quality sign or brand. However, as far as products having a PDO for a long time are concerned, positive associations with this label (extrinsic quality attributes) boost the consumers’ trust and make its quality treated as obvious. Then brand awareness, including a PDO, which may be considered as an umbrella brand, makes the consumers refrain from analysing extrinsic quality attributes. In that case, the producer may focus on emphasising the symbolic features of a traditional food product. This type of strategy leads to a consolidation of the quality perception on the basis of extrinsic attributes and enables to achieve higher satisfaction level among consumers, their loyalty and purchase intention (Espejel, Fandos, & Flavián, 2007).

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Consumption of traditional food is more common in Southern Europe than in the North of the continent. It stems from, inter alia, a higher concentration of small processing enterprises and a larger diversity of production systems and final products in Southern Europe. Consequently, traditional food has a higher economic importance there (Jordana, 2000). The literature of the subject contains analyses of the socio-demographic profile of traditional food consumers. Extant research shows that these are usually people coming from a given region, having a below-average income, women, inhabitants of the countryside and people with a lower level of education (Vanhonacker, Lengard, Hersleth, & Verbeke, 2010). A large-scale international comparative study carried out in Norway, Belgium, France, Spain, Italy and Poland in a representative sample of 4828 consumers was enabled to draw a portrait of the typical consumer of traditional food. It is usually an inhabitant of rural areas, lover of national or regional cuisine, an oldfashioned person, keen on cooking, a housewife, family with children (whose age does not matter). Meanwhile, conventional food consumers are usually engaged in professional activities, lonely, travelling often and oriented at comfort. Consumption of traditional food is higher in Southern than Northern Europe. It grows with age, size of the household, but no correlation with gender was found. People belonging to the segment of traditional food consumers are interested in food and read specialised magazines in this area. Moreover, they tend to be more religious than conventional (mass) food consumers. They devote more time to preparation of meals and are more creative in this regard, are well prepared when they start cooking and try to impress others with their cooking skills. Health is important for them and they enjoy good health themselves. They spend a higher proportion of their income on food and buy food products on local markets more regularly. Furthermore, this group of consumers put more effort in seeking organic food and signs which signal the origin and authenticity. They prefer products they already know and usually have a long history of consuming traditional products. They are characterised by a higher level of consumer ethnocentrism concerning local, regional and national products, which they are inclined to buy even at a higher price. This ethnocentrism is connected with a bigger interest and knowledge about their local community and history of the area they live in. They are usually open to innovations concerning traditional food products in the field of packaging, which preserves the sensory properties of the product, use of organic materials and signs guaranteeing the geographical origin of raw materials. They value innovations aiming to raise food safety and expect traditional products to be available all year long (Vanhonacker et al., 2010). Importance attached to familiarity with a product was found to be strongly and positively associated with general attitude towards traditional food as well as traditional food consumption. Natural content of food was positively associated with the attitude towards traditional food and traditional food consumption (Pieniak, Verbeke, Vanhonacker, Guerrero, & Hersleth, 2009). A cluster analysis of 150 firms producing traditional food products in Hungary, Belgium, and Italy revealed a widespread lack of marketing capabilities, especially in planning and implementation of the marketing strategy as well as in dissemination of generated intelligence. As a result, many SMEs operating in this product category miss opportunities to keep up to date with market development (Gellynck, Banterle, Kühne, Carraresi, & Stranieri, 2010). A survey among 100 Swiss consumers revealed that the foodrelated values can be summarised as: authenticity/naturalness, conviviality, health, quality/indulgence, convenience, and price. The salience of these values and their negatively evaluated counterparts differed for various social eating situations and product categories (Hauser, Jonas, & Riemann, 2011). In a survey of Polish food-processing enterprises, it was found that traditional recipe constituted the 7th most important

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characteristic of the offer on the domestic market and 9th in exports. The most important determinants of competitive advantage on the Polish market included taste, price, and quality assurance, whereas on foreign markets quality assurance was ranked highest, followed by taste and price (Bryła, 2012b). Poland suffers from a reluctance of farmers to engage in producer organisations, which has its roots in the communist past and constitutes an important obstacle in certain European Union rural development policy schemes (Bryła, 2012a). This factor also seems to impede the development of traditional food producers, as this field of activity usually requires a high level of cooperation and horizontal market channel integration. The development of traditional food production is not only an interesting marketing strategy proposition, but also a factor contributing to the sustainable development of Polish rural areas, alongside organic farming (Bryła, 2015). The sustainable development perspective needs strengthening in Polish public policies (Bryła, 2013a). Borowska claims that analysing the market of traditional products in Poland is difficult, because a part of direct sales from a farm or processor is not evidenced, and consumers often interpret the terms ‘traditional’ or ‘regional’ in a way which differs from the definitions adopted in EU and national legal acts. Consumers tend to associate these notions intuitively with such attributes as ‘familiar’, ‘grandmother’s’, ‘hand-made’ or ‘with a traditional recipe’. Borowska (2008) conducted a SWOT analysis of producers and items registered on the List of Traditional Products in Poland on the basis of her own empirical research from 2006 to 2008. She ascribed the following elements to the strengths: quality of the product; unique taste; culinary heritage; having the value of natural food; direct sales of products; opportunity to conduct a business activity; disappearing anonymity of products and producers; information in mass media; a growing interest among consumers; consumer awareness of higher prices; products with minimum 25 years of tradition in manufacturing; products addressed to elite, sophisticated consumers; lack of substitutes; a more expensive product than conventional food in the same category; some products having a typically seasonal character. The quoted author listed the following points among the weaknesses of market development for traditional and regional products in Poland: insufficient recognition of products; price; seasonality of production e.g. for honey and sour cherries; lack of confirmation of the high quality with certificates; a weak initiative to create producer organisations; lack of suitable distribution channels; dispersion of producer activities; timeintensive and labour-intensive production methods; high costs related to setting up manufacturing (excessive bureaucracy); shortage of means for expansive promotion; demand exceeding supply of certain products. The typical consumer of traditional and regional food products is characterised by the following traits: looking for authenticity, tradition; emphasising their individuality; belonging to the local community (attached to a concrete product, but sensitive to its price); tourists; gourmets (occasional clients); expecting a ‘guarantee’ of the high quality of the product; looking for a product; associating a product with the region (Borowska, 2007). On the basis of questionnaire interview with 150 inhabitants of Warsaw and its surroundings, the principal attributes of traditional and regional food were defined. According to the consumers under study, these include healthy products (50% of responses), tasty (35%), original (20%), manufactured with a home-made recipe (14%), organic, without preservatives (8%). As many as 79% of the study subjects revealed they purchase this type of food (Z˙akowska-Biemans & Kuc, 2009). In a survey among 203 Polish young consumers, a considerable attachment to the Polish traditional cuisine was found, which was confirmed by the declared attitudes towards Polish traditional products and dishes. The level of neophobia (fear of the new) correlated with the choices made. The higher the neophobia level, the higher

attachment to traditional food. As far as socio-demographic characteristics are concerned, only self-reported income had a statistically significant relationship with the declared attitudes to the Polish traditional food. The choices made can be explained partly by the propensity of Polish people to adopt ethnocentric positions on the food market (Jez˙ewska-Zychowicz, 2009). An example of a retailing network which has built its competitive advantage on appealing to tradition is Krakowski Kredens (‘the Cupboard of Cracow’). It is a company belonging to Alma Market (a joint-stock company). The originality of the brand relies on the construction of an offer of products appealing to the tradition of ‘specialties of the Cracow cuisine’ or – in a wider sense – of the Galicia region (in the South of Poland, not to be confused with Galicia in Spain). The offer encompasses a dozen of product lines, including traditional sausages, processed fruit and vegetables, juices, jams, sweets, teas, liqueurs. The target of the retailer is to have a network of about 100 points of sale, including some situated at the airports, as the Krakowski Kredens products may constitute a souvenir for foreign tourists leaving Poland and a gift bought by Poles going abroad. The Krakowski Kredens network is characterised by clear price positioning in the ‘super-premium’ segment, which improves the exclusiveness of the offer; a unique format of the shop; strong brand identity referring to local and regional values; rootedness of the brand in the local tradition; originality of recipes; creative appeals to the past; a strong personality of the CEO – the creator of the brand; good relations with local suppliers; innovations in packaging, marketing communication and distribution. The private label combines modern and traditional values, which contribute to its attractiveness for various generations of consumers. The sensory and nostalgic marketing are in perfect harmony in this retailing format (Doman´ski & Bryła, 2010, 219–222). Materials and methods We prepared a survey addressed to a representative sample of Polish consumers regarding: age, sex, education and the size of the city of origin. The sample consisted of 1000 inhabitants of Poland aged 15 and more. In order to ensure a high quality of the study, the research was commissioned by the University of Lodz and executed by a specialised marketing research agency (ARC Opinia i Rynek). The survey was carried out in 2014 with the use of CAWI (Computer Assisted Web Interview) methodology. The sampled population was made of an Internet panel (e-panel.pl). The research instrument was a questionnaire designed by the author of this paper. The content of the questionnaire was developed on the basis of a thorough literature review and previous own research among origin food producers and distributors (Bryła, 2014; Doman´ski & Bryła, 2013). We developed our own items, but we were inspired, inter alia, by van der Meulen (2007), van Ittersum, Candel, and Torelli (2000), Fotopoulos and Krystallis (2003), and Teuber (2011). The questionnaire contained 19 thematic questions, some of which were quite complex, and 8 questions on respondent characteristics. Whenever a catalogue of options was proposed, the respondents had the possibility to supplement it with their own answer (semi-open questions) so as to ensure that the respondents’ opinions are reflected to the highest degree in the research results. The questionnaire was designed in Polish due to the research setting. It is available from the author upon request. Bivariate analyses were conducted with the use of cross-tabulation. Women constitute 50.1% of the study subjects, which is slightly less than in the general population of Poland (51.6% in 2002 according to Central Statistical Office, 2013, 195). The age of the study subjects ranges from 15 to 65, with the average of 40. The age structure of the sample corresponds very well with the general population of Poles belonging to this age interval (Central Statistical Office, 2013,

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196). As far as education level is concerned, 42.0% of the study subject have only completed primary school, 36.8% have secondary education, and 21.1% graduated from a higher education institution. These figures are also similar to the general population (Central Statistical Office, 2013, 199). Regarding professional activity, the sample is very heterogeneous. Blue-collar workers make up almost 1/3 (31.8%), followed by white collars (28.1%), students (13.7%), oldage and disability pensioners (9.8%), unemployed (7.2%), housewives (6.9%), and other (2.5%). All the 16 Polish regions are represented in the sample. The sample also resembles the general population regarding the size of the city of origin (Central Statistical Office, 2013, 204–207) (Table 1). The proportion between inhabitants of urban

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Table 1 Comparison of the structure of the study sample with the general population of Poland.

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Charactersistics

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Gender Men Women Total Age 0–14 15–19 20–24 25–29 30–34 35–39 40–44 45–49 50–54 55–59 60–65* 65 and more Total Education Tertiary Secondary Primary None Unknown Total Place of living (size of the city) Rural areas Below 20 thousand inhabitants 20–50 thousand inhabitants 50–100 thousand inhabitants 100–200 thousand inhabitants 200–500 thousand inhabitants Over 500 thousand inhabitants Total Place of living (region) Dolnos´la˛skie Kujawsko-pomorskie Lubelskie Lubuskie Łódzkie Małopolskie Mazowieckie Opolskie Podkarpackie Podlaskie Pomorskie S´la˛skie S´wie˛tokrzyskie Warmin´sko-mazurskie Wielkopolskie Zachodniopomorskie Total Income Average net monthly income per 1 household member (PLN)

74 75

The sample (%)

The population of Poland (%)

49.9 50.1 100.0

48.4 51.6 100.0

0.0 5.9 12.9 12.7 10.0 9.3 10.3 12.5 7.0 12.0 7.4 0.0 100.0

15.0 5.8 7.0 8.2 8.3 7.6 6.4 6.1 7.1 7.6 6.6 14.2 100.0

21.1 36.8 42.0 0.0 0.0 100.0

17.0 31.8 44.9 1.4 5.2 100.0

39.0 12.3 10.4 8.4 8.4 9.6 11.9 100.0

39.4 12.8 11.0 8.4 7.8 9.0 11.4 100.0

5.9 6.2 5.4 2.8 6.8 10.0 14.9 2.5 5.5 2.9 7.0 13.3 2.2 4.6 7.1 2.9 100.0

7.6 5.4 5.6 2.7 6.6 8.7 13.8 2.6 5.5 3.1 5.9 12.0 3.3 3.8 9.0 4.5 100.0

1450

1278

Note: *60–64 for the population of Poland. Source: own research and calculations on the basis of (Central Statistical Office, 2013).

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and rural areas is almost identical as in the general population (39.0 % of the study subjects live in the countryside compared to 39.4% of Poles). As far as the household size is concerned, the sample is quite diverse, with 5.7% single-person households, 19.7% households of 2 people, 24.3% – 3, 28.7% – 4, and 21.6% – having 5 members or more. The average net monthly income per 1 household member amounts to 1450 PLN in the study sample in 2014, compared to 1278 PLN in the general population of Poland in 2012 (Central Statistical Office, 2013, 298). Results As many as 95% of the study subjects declared purchasing origin (regional) food products. However, the sample is quite diverse concerning the frequency of buying such food (11.9% – very often, 29.9% – rather often, 36.4% – with an average frequency, 16.1% – rather seldom, and 5.6% – never). It needs to be emphasised that the frequencies are self-reported and subjectively defined, just like the category of origin food itself. Nevertheless, our results justify the need to carry out a segmentation of the market of origin food according to purchase frequency. Regular customers are the most valuable for producers and distributors, but even occasional purchases may bring considerable revenue if they are performed by large social groups. It is a challenge to convince consumers to increase the frequency of purchase and encourage those who remain outside the market to try such food. It also needs to be mentioned that the frequency partly depends on the product category within the assortment of regional foods. Among those respondents who declared buying origin food, its share in the total food basket ranges from 1 to 100%, with a mean of 30.2% and a median of 20%. The origin food product categories that are selected most often include processed meat (76.8%), bakery and confectionery (75.0%), fruit and vegetables (71.3%), honey (70.4), cheese (60.8%), and other dairy products (60.4%). We have examined the relationship between the declared consumption of origin food and selected socio-demographic variables, including sex, age, education level, professional activity, size of the city, size of the household and income (average monthly disposable net income per 1 member of the household). The results show that socio-demographic criteria explain the consumption of origin food in a very limited way. Men and women behave similarly on the Polish market for origin food. The probability of consuming origin food depends on the age of the consumer, but it is not a linear relationship. A higher consumption was observed in the 25–34 and 55–65 age groups. Although over half of single-person households purchase origin food very often or rather often compared to less than 40% of the households consisting of at least 5 members, we did not find a statistically significant relationship between the household size and origin food consumption. Consumers with lower incomes tend to buy origin food less often, but this relationship was not statistically significant. We may suppose that psychographic criteria are more relevant. Our respondents were asked to evaluate origin food compared to conventional (mass, ‘ordinary’ food) (Table 2). Over 4/5 of the study subjects believe that origin food is produced in a more traditional way than conventional food. The characteristics differentiating origin food from mass food include links with tradition as well as sensory and health properties. Over ¾ of the respondents think that origin products have better quality than ordinary food, it is more authentic and trustworthy. Almost 3/5 accept the higher price of origin food. The only statement with a majority of negative answers concerns advertising. Therefore, we may observe a need to improve the salience and effectiveness of marketing communication activities on the market of origin food. In the subgroup of very frequent consumers, opinions on origin food tend to be much more favourable, while non-consumers exhibit very high levels of uncertainty.

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Table 2 Opinions on origin food compared to conventional food (%). Opinions Total sample (N = 1000) It is produced in a more traditional way It is more tasty It is more expensive It is healthier It has a better quality It is more authentic It arouses more trust I recommend its purchase to my family/friends It is more environmentally friendly It looks better It is subject to more strict controls I accept its higher price Its advertising is better Very frequent consumers (n = 119) It is produced in a more traditional way It is more tasty It is more expensive It is healthier It has a better quality It is more authentic It arouses more trust I recommend its purchase to my family/friends It is more environmentally friendly It looks better It is subject to more strict controls I accept its higher price Its advertising is better Non-consumers (n = 56) It is produced in a more traditional way It is more tasty It is more expensive It is healthier It has a better quality It is more authentic It arouses more trust I recommend its purchase to my family/friends It is more environmentally friendly It looks better It is subject to more strict controls I accept its higher price Its advertising is better

Definitely yes

Rather yes

Don’t know

Rather not

Definitely not

38.0 36.8 33.2 31.6 31.3 31.3 29.7 27.6 24.2 19.4 19.2 14.8 7.5

44.4 42.8 40.9 42.3 44.8 44.1 47.1 41.7 40.7 40.0 35.0 42.1 18.7

15.2 18.1 18.9 21.6 19.8 20.7 19.3 22.8 28.7 29.9 34.5 26.6 35.8

1.8 1.5 6.4 3.7 3.7 3.4 3.5 6.5 5.3 9.5 9.8 12.9 32.2

0.6 0.8 0.6 0.8 0.4 0.5 0.4 1.4 1.1 1.2 1.5 3.6 5.8

67.2 68.1 42.9 61.3 59.7 59.7 63.9 62.2 52.1 43.7 47.1 42.0 21.8

23.5 23.5 34.4 27.7 29.4 30.2 26.0 30.2 25.2 34.4 25.2 39.5 24.4

5.9 6.7 15.1 7.6 8.4 6.7 6.7 5.0 16.8 13.4 19.3 10.1 26.9

3.4 1.7 5.9 1.7 2.5 3.4 3.4 0.8 5.0 7.6 6.7 6.7 21.8

0.0 0.0 1.7 1.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.7 0.8 0.8 1.7 1.7 5.0

12.5 8.9 25.0 12.5 12.5 7.1 12.5 5.4 10.7 3.6 8.9 5.4 3.6

33.9 25.0 26.8 25.0 19.6 26.8 26.8 14.3 28.6 21.4 23.2 19.6 12.5

44.6 50.0 39.3 51.8 55.4 51.8 44.6 51.8 50.0 55.4 48.2 46.4 53.6

5.4 10.7 7.1 8.9 8.9 8.9 12.5 19.6 5.4 17.9 16.1 16.1 23.2

3.6 5.4 1.8 1.8 3.6 5.4 3.6 8.9 5.4 1.8 3.6 12.5 7.1

Source: own research.

47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

In another question, we established the willingness to pay for origin food compared to conditional food. The mean was 17.2% and the median 10%. The third quartile amounted to 20%, which means that a quarter of respondents are willing to pay 1/5 more for origin foods than for their conventional counterparts. Let us bear in mind, however, that these are declared values, which may differ considerably from real purchase behaviours, which are influenced by

additional factors, such as: availability, accessibility, merchandising, seller engagement. We asked the surveyed consumers to choose 3 most important characteristics of origin food in a catalogue of 10 options, including the possibility to provide a characteristic in a semi-open question (Table 3). The analysis of the distribution of answers enables to distinguish two characteristics of regional food products in the eyes

55 56 57 58

Table 3 The most important characteristics of origin food (%). Characteristics

59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72

Traditionality – being rooted in the history of the area of origin and local diet Territoriality – link with the place of origin High quality Healthiness Typicity – specificity of the production process and the final product Cooperation between suppliers of raw materials and the processor Landscapeability – link with the landscape Cooperation of producers with entities responsible for tourism development Communality – sharing knowledge and experiences among producers Other

Total sample

VFC

RFC

AFC

IFC

NC

Rank

%

%

%

%

%

%

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

67.9 58.0 44,5 39.1 32.2 15.2 12.9 9.5 7.6 0.7

59.7 37.0 54.6 53.8 21.8 20.2 9.2 14.3 7.6 0.8

64.9 58.9 48.5 40.5 32.1 13.7 13.4 9.0 9.0 0.0

71.8 60.3 42.5 39.7 35.3 14.8 11.8 8.8 6.6 0.0

72.7 67.1 41.0 28.0 34.8 14.9 13.0 8.7 7.5 0.6

62.5 57.1 25.0 28.6 26.8 16.1 25.0 8.9 7.1 8.9

Legend: VFC – very frequent consumers, RFC – rather frequent consumers, AFC – average frequency consumers, IFC – rather infrequent consumers, NC – non-consumers. Note: the sum in each column may exceed 100% because the consumers were requested to provide 3 characteristics each. Source: own research.

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Table 4 Determinants of perceived authenticity of origin food. Determinants

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

7

Natural taste Product quality Sale in the region of origin Label European quality sign Point of sale – retailer type Consumer knowledge Look of the product Separate exposition place in shops Name of the product (brand) Packaging Low availability of such products Addressing offer to tourists Other

VFC

RFC

AFC

IFC

NC

Rank

Total sample %

%

%

%

%

%

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

41.7 36.8 27.9 26.9 23.3 22.2 20.8 18.5 18.2 17.3 14.5 14.3 6.1 0.7

40.3 42.0 24.4 22.7 20.2 15.1 28.6 21.0 15.1 16.0 14.3 16.0 10.1 0.0

46.2 38.1 30.1 24.1 20.7 23.1 20.4 21.1 18.7 16.1 12.0 12.4 6.7 0.0

40.5 39.2 27.4 29.3 26.0 20.5 19.7 17.0 19.2 18.4 16.4 14.0 5.8 0.3

41.6 26.7 30.4 32.3 23.6 29.2 20.5 16.8 18.0 16.8 13.7 17.4 3.1 0.6

28.6 32.1 19.6 19.6 25.0 23.2 14.3 14.3 16.1 21.4 17.9 14.3 5.4 8.9

Legend: VFC – very frequent consumers, RFC – rather frequent consumers, AFC – average frequency consumers, IFC – rather infrequent consumers, NC – non-consumers. Note: the sum in each column may exceed 100% because the consumers were requested to provide 3 characteristics each. Source: own research.

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

of Polish consumers. They are: traditionality, understood as being rooted in the history of the area of origin and local diet, and territoriality, i.e. link with the place of origin. It seems justified to emphasise these characteristics in the marketing communication concerning such food. Among very frequent consumers of origin food, high quality and healthiness take the second and third positions on the list of characteristics, respectively, and traditionality remains at the top. We have asked our respondents to choose 3 most important factors on the basis of which it is possible to assess the authenticity of origin food (Table 4). Our respondents attributed the highest importance to sensory values of origin products (natural taste). Taste was followed by product quality. Over ¼ of the study subjects drew attention to the location of the point of sale in the product area of origin and to labelling. Therefore, marketing strategies of origin food producers should focus on emphasising specific taste of their products as well as their high quality. Very frequent consumers of origin food believe product quality to be the top determinant of its perceived authenticity, followed by the natural taste, and consumer knowledge. Non-consumers attribute the third rank to a European quality sign. We have asked our respondents to indicate 5 most important factors that determine the choice of origin food in a catalogue of 26 options, including a possibility to provide one’s own determinant (Table 5). Our respondents attributed the highest importance to the traditional recipe of origin food, whereas their identification with the area of origin ranked only fifth. The second rank was taken by taste, followed by product uniqueness. The low rank of nostalgia is a bit surprising, because we analyse the category of origin food. We expected a higher role of consumer nostalgia in this market segment compared to conventional food products because of its strong embeddedness in local traditions and references to Geographical Indications, which may stimulate recollections of one’s childhood and past places of living. Our respondents are driven primarily by appeals to tradition and sensory characteristics of origin food products. Among very frequent consumers of origin food, taste ranks first, followed by the traditional recipe and healthiness. Nonconsumers emphasise the role of price and curiosity, followed by the traditional recipe, taste and fashion. Discussion Consumer knowledge was the most important determinant of perceived authenticity among Polish organic food processors, followed by product appearance, just like in this study. However,

labelling played a relatively more important role in this regard as far as organic food was concerned, while the brand was less relevant. This may be related to the significance of quality assurance and certification schemes in this segment of the market. Organic food producers believed that their competitive advantage depended on healthiness, brand, reputation and taste to the largest extent (Bryła, 2013b), whereas traditional food producers emphasised the role of taste and product uniqueness in this context. A survey among Polish traditional food producers indicated that perceived authenticity of traditional products depends mainly on such factors as consumer knowledge, the look of the product, and its name. The principal determinants of competitive advantage in the area of offering traditional food products include the following factors in the opinion of producers: taste, product uniqueness, traditional recipe, brand and reputation, healthiness, and smell (Bryła, 2013c). A comparison of constitutive characteristics of origin and organic food products shows their positioning in the minds of grocery shop managers in Poland (Bryła, 2014). Origin products are defined by the shopkeepers as having a link with the area of origin (territoriality) and being rooted in the history of the area of origin and local diet (traditionality), whereas organic products are characterised by healthiness, high quality and typicity. Compared to consumers, distributors put more emphasis on the dimension of territoriality, and less on traditionality, in defining origin food products. Polish grocery shop managers believe that the major determinants of perceived authenticity of origin food products encompass consumer knowledge, product labelling, its quality, natural taste and appearance. If we compare our results with the cited research, we may notice a different hierarchy of determinants of perceived authenticity of origin food products. While consumers emphasise the significance of natural taste and sales in the area of origin, distributors claim that consumer knowledge and product labelling are key in this regard. The only feature that both groups name in the top 3 determinants of perceived authenticity is high quality of the product. Regarding the determinants of choice of origin food products, consumers and distributors agree that the traditional recipe is the most important. However, differences occur further in the ranking of determinants of competitive advantage of such food. While our results reported in this paper show the critical role of taste and healthiness, the survey among shopkeepers indicated that identification with one’s area of origin and brand were considered crucial in this regard. The willingness to pay for origin food products compared to conventional food amounted to 17.2% in our sample, while the real price premium according to a study among grocery shop

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Table 5 Determinants of origin food selection. Determinants

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Total sample

VFC

RFC

AFC

IFC

NC

%

%

%

%

%

%

1 2 3 4 5

44.9 44.1 31.2 29.3 25.1

39.5 42.9 29.4 35.3 21.0

46.8 48.2 31.1 30.4 22.7

48.8 44.1 30.4 30.1 25.2

43.5 44.7 37.9 23.6 36.0

25.0 23.2 21.4 21.4 14.3

6 7

21.6 20.2

19.3 21.0

22.7 25.1

21.9 18.6

21.7 15.5

17.9 16.1

8 9

19.7 19.6

14.3 21.8

14.0 20.1

23.6 18.4

23.0 19.3

26.8 21.4

10 11 12 13

18.4 18.1 16.8 16.0

17.6 19.3 16.8 16.0

23.1 9.0 17.7 16.7

17.3 20.0 17.0 18.4

13.0 26.7 15.5 9.3

17.9 26.8 14.3 16.1

14 15

15.5 15.1

10.9 22.7

14.7 14.7

17.0 14.2

16.8 15.5

16.1 5.4

16 17 18

14.8 14.7 12.9

16.8 13.4 9.2

18.4 16.1 14.0

12.3 15.9 13.7

13.0 9.9 13.0

12.5 16.1 8.9

19

11.5

10.1

8.7

10.7

15.5

23.2

20 21 22 23 24 25 26

9.3 8.6 7.3 7.1 6.6 5.4 0.6

12.6 7.6 13.4 5.0 6.7 10.1 0.0

11.7 8.7 7.4 5.0 5.7 5.0 0.0

7.9 9.6 4.9 8.8 6.3 4.9 0.3

6.8 5.0 8.1 8.7 9.3 3.7 0.0

5.4 14.3 7.1 7.1 5.4 5.4 8.9

Rank Traditional recipe Taste Product uniqueness Healthiness Product identification with an area of origin Consumption pleasure Quality assurance (certificate, sign) Price Availability near one’s place of living Smell Curiosity Producer brand and reputation Richness in minerals and vitamins Opinions of family/friends Ecological character of the product Food safety Concern for local producers Brand and reputation of the point of sale Fashion for consuming such food Loyalty Expiry date Traceability Nostalgia Advertising Concern for animal welfare Other

Legend: VFC – very frequent consumers, RFC – rather frequent consumers, AFC – average frequency consumers, IFC – rather infrequent consumers, NC – non-consumers. Note: the sum in each column may exceed 100% because the consumers were requested to provide 5 characteristics each. Source: own research.

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

managers in Poland was 11.7% (Bryła, 2014). However, we should bear in mind that these product categories were defined in a subjective manner by our study subjects themselves. Future research might concern the underlying causes of the aforementioned differences in the answers provided by origin food producers, distributors, and consumers. An interesting avenue for further research would also be an exploration of subjective ways of defining origin (and organic) food products and perception of various quality indicators. Future analyses might concern the models of distribution channel integration in this product category with a systemic approach and a particular attention paid to the emergence of online distribution channels. Conclusions We carried out a survey in a representative sample of 1000 Polish consumers. According to our respondents, the characteristics differentiating origin food from conventional food include links with tradition as well as sensory and health properties. Referring to the typology proposed by van der Meulen (2007), traditionality and territoriality turned out to be the most important characteristics of origin food. The perceived authenticity of origin products depends to the largest extent on such factors as: natural taste, product quality, sale in the region of origin and labelling. The most important determinants of origin food selection include: traditional recipe, taste, and product uniqueness. Our results contribute to the theory emerging from a stream of research on origin food marketing and consumer behaviour on the food market, which is also enriched by other disciplines, like an-

thropology of food, economics of geographical indications, economic geography, and rural sociology. We have applied the theoretical Q4 framework of van der Meulen regarding origin food dimensions to the Polish context as well as examined the willingness to pay and the determinants of perceived authenticity and consumer choice in the product category under study. Despite its innovativeness and comprehensiveness, our study is not devoid of limitations. Our choice of the research setting is at the same time its strength and limitation, because most of the variables under study are social constructs heavily influenced by the attribution of subjective meanings. Therefore, our results refer to the opinions and behaviours of Polish consumers, which may differ considerably from other markets, especially those with a longer tradition in the collective valorisation and protection of origin food, the most notable examples of which are France and Italy. Furthermore, as our study is cross-sectional, we were unable to track dynamic developments in consumer attitudes, preferences and behaviours over time.

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89

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Please cite this article in press as: Paweł Bryła, The role of appeals to tradition in origin food marketing. A survey among Polish consumers , Appetite (2015), doi: 10.1016/ j.appet.2015.04.056

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