ANATOMICAL STUDY
Eyebrow Shapes Over the Last Century Kun Hwang, MD, PhD and Seong Kyung Yoo, BS Abstract: The aim of this study was to analyze eyebrow shapes as represented in the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ over the last century (1916–2015). Photographs containing distinguishable eyebrows were selected from a book entitled ‘‘Vogue 100: A Century of Style.’’ A total of 120 frontal pictures in which the eye and eyebrows were identifiable were included and analyzed. The relative width of the eyebrow (REW), as well as relative medial (RMH), midpupillary (RPH), and lateral (RLH) eyebrow height were measured in reference to the length of the palpebral fissure. Types of brow arches and arch shapes were also classified. The REW was 1.64 0.24, and did not differ significantly over time (P ¼ 0.118). The RLH (0.60 0.09) was significantly greater than the RMH (0.53 0.17), and the RPH was the shortest of the 3 measures of height (0.36 0.16) (P < 0.001). The RMH (P ¼ 0.515) and RPH (P ¼ 0.848) did not exhibit significant chronological variation. However, the RLH increased over time (P ¼ 0.007, y ¼ 0.001x 1.047). The distribution of the 6 eyebrow arch types varied significantly (P < 0.001). The Anastasia type (45.8%) was the most frequent, followed by the Hwang (25.0%) and Schreiber (11.7%) types. The Lamas (8.3%), Brit-Vogue (7.5%), and Westmore (1.7%) types were relatively infrequent. The arched type (31.7%) and the tail-up type (30.0%) were frequent, while the head-up type (26.7%) and the horizontal type (11.6%) were less frequent. The results of this study may be useful for planning facial rejuvenation operations, as well as for clinical practitioners dealing with brow esthetics or the tattooing of eyebrows.
captured them are an extraordinary portrait of their age and comprise a panoramic view of the last century. The aim of this study was to analyze the eyebrow shapes presented in the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ over the last century (1916–2015).2
MATERIALS AND METHODS Materials: Photographs containing distinguishable eyebrows were selected from ‘‘Vogue 100: A Century of Style.’’2 A total of 120 frontal pictures (taken from 1916 to 2015) in which the eye and eyebrows were identifiable were ultimately included. The following distances were measured (Fig. 1): 1. length of the palpebral fissure (L); 2. width of the eyebrow (W); and 3. height of the eyebrow; - Medial height (MH): distance from the medial canthus to the medial end of the eyebrow. - Midpupillary height (PH): distance from the lid margin to the lowest margin of the eyebrow at the vertical line through the midpupillary line. - Lateral height (LH): distance from the lateral canthus to the lateral end of the eyebrow. The following ratios were calculated: relative eyebrow width (REW), width of the eyebrow divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; relative medial height (RMH), MH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; relative midpupillary height (RPH), PH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; and relative lateral height (RLH), LH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure.
Key Words: Beauty, eyebrows, periodicals as topic, rhytidoplasty
Types of Brow Arches
(J Craniofac Surg 2016;27: 2181–2184)
Several competing ideal brow designs have been proposed,1,3– 6 primarily based on analyses performed by plastic surgeons or makeup artists (Fig. 2).
E
yebrows play the role of the conductor in the metaphorical orchestra of facial expression.1 Brow lift procedures are performed by plastic surgeons to counteract the effect of aging and to optimize facial aesthetics. Conde´ Montrose Nast bought ‘‘Vogue’’ in 1905 and launched the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ in 1916. From its origins during the First World War to its present day form in the digital era, the personalities contained in its pages and the photographers who
From the Department of Plastic Surgery, Inha University Hospital, Incheon, Korea. Received July 28, 2016. Accepted for publication August 21, 2016. Address correspondence and reprint requests to Kun Hwang, MD, PhD, Department of Plastic Surgery, Inha University Hospital, 27 Inhang-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon 400-711, Korea; E-mail: [email protected] This study was supported by a grant from Inha University (INHA-Research Grant). The authors report no conflicts of interest. Copyright # 2016 by Mutaz B. Habal, MD ISSN: 1049-2275 DOI: 10.1097/SCS.0000000000003194
1. Westmore: The brow starts on the same vertical plane as the lateral extent of the nasal ala and the inner canthus, the arch is perpendicular to the lateral limbus, and the brow ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the nasal ala through the lateral canthus. 2. Lamas: The brow begins on a perpendicular line drawn from the base of the nose to the brow line, the arch is on an imagined line extending from the tip of the nose to the lateral border of the iris, and the brow ends on a diagonal line drawn from the base of the nose tangent to the corner of the eye. 3. Anastasia: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, the arch is on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil, and the brow ends on a line drawn from the edge of the corresponding nasal ala through the outer edge of the eye. 4. Schreiber: The overall position of the eyebrow is lower than the Westmore type. The arch is more lateral than the lateral limbus, and the lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. 5. Hwang: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the middle of the nostril through
2181 Copyright © 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD. Unauthorized reproduction of this article is prohibited.
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Hwang and Yoo
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
FIGURE 1. Measured distances. L, length of the palpebral fissure; LH, lateral height; MH, medial height; PH, midpupillary height; W, width of the eyebrow.
the lateral canthus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. 6. Brit-Vogue: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the contralateral ala through the lateral canthus.
Arch Shapes The following arch shapes are presented in Fig. 3. 1. Arched: The brow arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil. 2. Head-up: The medial arm of the brow is rotated upward to the horizontal plane. 3. Tail-up: The lateral arm of the brow is rotated upward to the horizontal plane. 4. Horizontal: The medial arm and lateral arm of the brow are rotated upward to the horizontal plane.
FIGURE 2. Types of brow arches. Westmore (W): Brow starts on the same vertical plane as the lateral extent of the nasal ala and the inner canthus, arch perpendicular to the lateral limbus, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the nasal ala through the lateral canthus. Lamas (L): Brow begins on a perpendicular line drawn from the base of the nose to the brow line, arches on an imagined line extending from the tip of the nose to the lateral border of the iris, and ends on a diagonal line drawn from the base of the nose tangent to the corner of the eye. Anastasia (A): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil, and ends on a line drawn from the edge of the corresponding nasal ala through the outer edge of the eye. Schreiber (S): Overall position of the eyebrow is lower than the Westmore. The arch is more lateral than the lateral limbus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. Hwang (H): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the middle of the nostril through the lateral canthus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. Brit-Vogue (V): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the contra-lateral ala through the lateral canthus. Reproduced from J Craniofac Surg. 2014;25:1207–1211.
Statistical Analysis Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to compare the images. P values < 0.05 were considered to indicate significance.
RESULTS A total of 120 pictures were analyzed (31 pictures of male subjects and 89 of female subjects).
Width of the Eyebrow The REW was 1.64 0.24 (Fig. 4), and did not vary significantly over time (P ¼ 0.118, regression analysis).
Height of the Eyebrow The RLH (0.60 0.09) was significantly greater than the RMH (0.53 0.17), and the RPH was the shortest of these 3 measures of height (0.36 0.16) (ANOVA, Tukey, P < 0.001) (Fig. 4).
The RMH (P ¼ 0.515) and RPH (P ¼ 0.848) did not vary significantly over time (regression analysis). However, the RLH increased over time (P ¼ 0.007, regression analysis, y ¼ 0.001x 1.047) (Fig. 5A).
Brow Arch Types The distribution of the 6 types of eyebrow arches varied significantly (P < 0.001, ANOVA, Tukey). The Anastasia type (55, 45.8%) was the most frequent, followed by the Hwang (30, 25.0%) and Schreiber (14, 11.7%) arch types. The Lamas (10, 8.3%), Brit-Vogue (9, 7.5%), and Westmore (2, 1.7%) were relatively infrequent (Table 1). The Anastasia and Hwang types were significantly more frequent than the other types (P < 0.05, ANOVA, Tukey) (Fig. 5B).
# 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD 2182 Copyright © 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD. Unauthorized reproduction of this article is prohibited.
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
Eyebrow Shapes Last Century
FIGURE 5. (A) Relative lateral height increased with the chronological era (P ¼ 0.007, [regression analysis], y ¼ 0.001x 1.047). (B) Brow archetypes of British Vogue among the 6 archetypes. (C) Arch shapes in British Vogue.
TABLE 1. Preferred Types of Korea and Exhibited Types of British Vogue Korea
Type
FIGURE 3. Arch shapes. Arched: Arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil. Head-up: Medial arm of the brow was rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Tail-up: Lateral arm of the brow was rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Horizontal: Medial arm and lateral arm of the brow were rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Reproduced from J Craniofac Surg. 2015;26:e412–e416.
Arch Shape The arched type (31.7%) and the tail-up type (30.0%) were frequent. The head-up type (26.7%) and the horizontal type (11.6%) were less common. The arched type and the tail-up type were significantly more common than the head-up type (P ¼ 0.115) or the horizontal type (P ¼ 0.012) (Fig. 5C).
DISCUSSION The name Vogue means style in French. ‘‘Fashion changes, but style endures’’ is a famous maxim of Coco Chanel.
Anastasia Hwang Schreiber Lamas Westmore Brit-Vogue
Total
UK
n
%
104 29 19 51 29
44.8 12.5 8.2 22.0 12.5 — 100.0
232
< < > >
n
%
P
55 30 14 10 2 9 120
45.8 25.0 11.7 8.3 1.7 7.5 100.0
0.730
Eyebrow Shapes Over the Last Century Kun Hwang, MD, PhD and Seong Kyung Yoo, BS Abstract: The aim of this study was to analyze eyebrow shapes as represented in the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ over the last century (1916–2015). Photographs containing distinguishable eyebrows were selected from a book entitled ‘‘Vogue 100: A Century of Style.’’ A total of 120 frontal pictures in which the eye and eyebrows were identifiable were included and analyzed. The relative width of the eyebrow (REW), as well as relative medial (RMH), midpupillary (RPH), and lateral (RLH) eyebrow height were measured in reference to the length of the palpebral fissure. Types of brow arches and arch shapes were also classified. The REW was 1.64 0.24, and did not differ significantly over time (P ¼ 0.118). The RLH (0.60 0.09) was significantly greater than the RMH (0.53 0.17), and the RPH was the shortest of the 3 measures of height (0.36 0.16) (P < 0.001). The RMH (P ¼ 0.515) and RPH (P ¼ 0.848) did not exhibit significant chronological variation. However, the RLH increased over time (P ¼ 0.007, y ¼ 0.001x 1.047). The distribution of the 6 eyebrow arch types varied significantly (P < 0.001). The Anastasia type (45.8%) was the most frequent, followed by the Hwang (25.0%) and Schreiber (11.7%) types. The Lamas (8.3%), Brit-Vogue (7.5%), and Westmore (1.7%) types were relatively infrequent. The arched type (31.7%) and the tail-up type (30.0%) were frequent, while the head-up type (26.7%) and the horizontal type (11.6%) were less frequent. The results of this study may be useful for planning facial rejuvenation operations, as well as for clinical practitioners dealing with brow esthetics or the tattooing of eyebrows.
captured them are an extraordinary portrait of their age and comprise a panoramic view of the last century. The aim of this study was to analyze the eyebrow shapes presented in the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ over the last century (1916–2015).2
MATERIALS AND METHODS Materials: Photographs containing distinguishable eyebrows were selected from ‘‘Vogue 100: A Century of Style.’’2 A total of 120 frontal pictures (taken from 1916 to 2015) in which the eye and eyebrows were identifiable were ultimately included. The following distances were measured (Fig. 1): 1. length of the palpebral fissure (L); 2. width of the eyebrow (W); and 3. height of the eyebrow; - Medial height (MH): distance from the medial canthus to the medial end of the eyebrow. - Midpupillary height (PH): distance from the lid margin to the lowest margin of the eyebrow at the vertical line through the midpupillary line. - Lateral height (LH): distance from the lateral canthus to the lateral end of the eyebrow. The following ratios were calculated: relative eyebrow width (REW), width of the eyebrow divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; relative medial height (RMH), MH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; relative midpupillary height (RPH), PH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure; and relative lateral height (RLH), LH divided by the length of the palpebral fissure.
Key Words: Beauty, eyebrows, periodicals as topic, rhytidoplasty
Types of Brow Arches
(J Craniofac Surg 2016;27: 2181–2184)
Several competing ideal brow designs have been proposed,1,3– 6 primarily based on analyses performed by plastic surgeons or makeup artists (Fig. 2).
E
yebrows play the role of the conductor in the metaphorical orchestra of facial expression.1 Brow lift procedures are performed by plastic surgeons to counteract the effect of aging and to optimize facial aesthetics. Conde´ Montrose Nast bought ‘‘Vogue’’ in 1905 and launched the British edition of ‘‘Vogue’’ in 1916. From its origins during the First World War to its present day form in the digital era, the personalities contained in its pages and the photographers who
From the Department of Plastic Surgery, Inha University Hospital, Incheon, Korea. Received July 28, 2016. Accepted for publication August 21, 2016. Address correspondence and reprint requests to Kun Hwang, MD, PhD, Department of Plastic Surgery, Inha University Hospital, 27 Inhang-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon 400-711, Korea; E-mail: [email protected] This study was supported by a grant from Inha University (INHA-Research Grant). The authors report no conflicts of interest. Copyright # 2016 by Mutaz B. Habal, MD ISSN: 1049-2275 DOI: 10.1097/SCS.0000000000003194
1. Westmore: The brow starts on the same vertical plane as the lateral extent of the nasal ala and the inner canthus, the arch is perpendicular to the lateral limbus, and the brow ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the nasal ala through the lateral canthus. 2. Lamas: The brow begins on a perpendicular line drawn from the base of the nose to the brow line, the arch is on an imagined line extending from the tip of the nose to the lateral border of the iris, and the brow ends on a diagonal line drawn from the base of the nose tangent to the corner of the eye. 3. Anastasia: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, the arch is on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil, and the brow ends on a line drawn from the edge of the corresponding nasal ala through the outer edge of the eye. 4. Schreiber: The overall position of the eyebrow is lower than the Westmore type. The arch is more lateral than the lateral limbus, and the lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. 5. Hwang: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the middle of the nostril through
2181 Copyright © 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD. Unauthorized reproduction of this article is prohibited.
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Hwang and Yoo
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
FIGURE 1. Measured distances. L, length of the palpebral fissure; LH, lateral height; MH, medial height; PH, midpupillary height; W, width of the eyebrow.
the lateral canthus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. 6. Brit-Vogue: The brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the contralateral ala through the lateral canthus.
Arch Shapes The following arch shapes are presented in Fig. 3. 1. Arched: The brow arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil. 2. Head-up: The medial arm of the brow is rotated upward to the horizontal plane. 3. Tail-up: The lateral arm of the brow is rotated upward to the horizontal plane. 4. Horizontal: The medial arm and lateral arm of the brow are rotated upward to the horizontal plane.
FIGURE 2. Types of brow arches. Westmore (W): Brow starts on the same vertical plane as the lateral extent of the nasal ala and the inner canthus, arch perpendicular to the lateral limbus, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the nasal ala through the lateral canthus. Lamas (L): Brow begins on a perpendicular line drawn from the base of the nose to the brow line, arches on an imagined line extending from the tip of the nose to the lateral border of the iris, and ends on a diagonal line drawn from the base of the nose tangent to the corner of the eye. Anastasia (A): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil, and ends on a line drawn from the edge of the corresponding nasal ala through the outer edge of the eye. Schreiber (S): Overall position of the eyebrow is lower than the Westmore. The arch is more lateral than the lateral limbus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. Hwang (H): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the middle of the nostril through the lateral canthus. The lateral eyebrow is higher than the medial eyebrow. Brit-Vogue (V): Brow starts on a perpendicular line drawn from the middle of the nostril, arches at two-thirds of its length, and ends on an oblique line drawn from the most lateral point of the contra-lateral ala through the lateral canthus. Reproduced from J Craniofac Surg. 2014;25:1207–1211.
Statistical Analysis Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to compare the images. P values < 0.05 were considered to indicate significance.
RESULTS A total of 120 pictures were analyzed (31 pictures of male subjects and 89 of female subjects).
Width of the Eyebrow The REW was 1.64 0.24 (Fig. 4), and did not vary significantly over time (P ¼ 0.118, regression analysis).
Height of the Eyebrow The RLH (0.60 0.09) was significantly greater than the RMH (0.53 0.17), and the RPH was the shortest of these 3 measures of height (0.36 0.16) (ANOVA, Tukey, P < 0.001) (Fig. 4).
The RMH (P ¼ 0.515) and RPH (P ¼ 0.848) did not vary significantly over time (regression analysis). However, the RLH increased over time (P ¼ 0.007, regression analysis, y ¼ 0.001x 1.047) (Fig. 5A).
Brow Arch Types The distribution of the 6 types of eyebrow arches varied significantly (P < 0.001, ANOVA, Tukey). The Anastasia type (55, 45.8%) was the most frequent, followed by the Hwang (30, 25.0%) and Schreiber (14, 11.7%) arch types. The Lamas (10, 8.3%), Brit-Vogue (9, 7.5%), and Westmore (2, 1.7%) were relatively infrequent (Table 1). The Anastasia and Hwang types were significantly more frequent than the other types (P < 0.05, ANOVA, Tukey) (Fig. 5B).
# 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD 2182 Copyright © 2016 Mutaz B. Habal, MD. Unauthorized reproduction of this article is prohibited.
The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery
Volume 27, Number 8, November 2016
Eyebrow Shapes Last Century
FIGURE 5. (A) Relative lateral height increased with the chronological era (P ¼ 0.007, [regression analysis], y ¼ 0.001x 1.047). (B) Brow archetypes of British Vogue among the 6 archetypes. (C) Arch shapes in British Vogue.
TABLE 1. Preferred Types of Korea and Exhibited Types of British Vogue Korea
Type
FIGURE 3. Arch shapes. Arched: Arches on a line drawn from the center of the nose through the center of the pupil. Head-up: Medial arm of the brow was rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Tail-up: Lateral arm of the brow was rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Horizontal: Medial arm and lateral arm of the brow were rotated upward to the horizontal plane. Reproduced from J Craniofac Surg. 2015;26:e412–e416.
Arch Shape The arched type (31.7%) and the tail-up type (30.0%) were frequent. The head-up type (26.7%) and the horizontal type (11.6%) were less common. The arched type and the tail-up type were significantly more common than the head-up type (P ¼ 0.115) or the horizontal type (P ¼ 0.012) (Fig. 5C).
DISCUSSION The name Vogue means style in French. ‘‘Fashion changes, but style endures’’ is a famous maxim of Coco Chanel.
Anastasia Hwang Schreiber Lamas Westmore Brit-Vogue
Total
UK
n
%
104 29 19 51 29
44.8 12.5 8.2 22.0 12.5 — 100.0
232
< < > >
n
%
P
55 30 14 10 2 9 120
45.8 25.0 11.7 8.3 1.7 7.5 100.0
0.730
